Fireworks in the Bedroom.

No not that kind of fireworks in the bedroom! A large part of lunar new-year involves fireworks. They are meant to scare away evil spirits. I think these particular evil spirits must be deaf because they don't seem to be taking any chances. More is always better in the business of scaring away evil spirits. The Lunar NewYear (spring festival) fireworks aren’t like 4^th of July fireworks. They are not done by the city, they are shot off by local folks. You won't see fancy shapes and words spelled out in the sky but  what they might lack in style, they more than make up for in quantity.  On Feb second, you hear explosions all day long; a few over here a few over there.  When they echo off the buildings in Beijing, they sound like bombs more than firecrackers. As the day becomes night you notice the frequency start to build. More rapid-fire cracks and it starts to sound like a war zone. Skyrockets start appearing on the horizon and it builds and builds. I walked with some co-workers down alleys in the Houhai area of Beijing. It is situated in the center or traditional hutongs near the drum and bell towers. 


Young men are setting off strings of firecrackers and the street lights up for a few seconds. Then a man walks out and sets what looks like a box on the ground and after suggesting we back away lights it with a cigarette. He runs much farther away than I find myself and I start to think that I am a bit too close. Soon mortar-like rockets fly into the air with a loud bang and explode high above us in bright colors. It is a beautiful sight and to know that it is happening in almost every street and alley in Beijing gives me a feeling of being connected to the whole city. After a walk around the frozen lake and dinner at No- Name restaurant (there is a sign outside which states you are at No Name restaurant), we set off to look for No-Name bar where we are supposed to meet friends. The problem with no name bar is that it is hard to find at least it was for us. Two of my companions had been there before and were in disagreement over where it was . It is near the bridge one said. No it is on the other side of the lake, said another. I just followed along as we walked one direction for a while then turned back and went the other direction for a while then back the other way etc. It is important to go with people that are starting out sober I think to my self.  After walking for quite a while in the cold, we decide to head over to Nanluoguxiang  a street filled with cafes and bars. We find a Spanish bar called Salud. A quick drink and back to the apartment. 


The sound of fireworks is constant now. I look out my seventh floor balcony and can see skyrockets and flashes somewhere every second. I could see that midnight would be crazy. A friend told me to imagine every fireworks show I have seen in my life and put them all together and that might describe New Years in Beijing. As midnight nears the frequency of the blasts grow tighter and tighter. Then midnight hits. If you remember news reports from Iraq as the bombing began? Well that is nothing compared to that this sounded like. 


When I lived in Escondido, California, New Year's Eve was a bit disturbing because the local homeboys would shoot guns into the air at midnight. I'm not talking a little gun. Nooooo. I'm talking shotguns and semi-automatic weapons. Except for the off chance that those bullets would come down and go though my roof it was almost comforting. If someone every invaded my neighborhood, the cholos could easily fight off anything but the most well equipped army. 


Looking out my bedroom window, it was a non-stop light show. The entire city was celebrating. I have always thought that celebrations like this unite people even if they are miles apart. When your favorite baseball team wins the world series, New Years and other holidays always make me feel a connection to my fellow man. Being so far away I find myself wishing I could share this spectacle with friends and family back home.

The Houhai  hutong is reflected in the frozen lake Houhai. The building in the center is the historic drum tower.

A pair of inflatable golden lions decorate the walkway near HouHai lake.