Suzhou and the etiquette of Gan Bei!

You hear so much about different cities and people argue about which one is more beautiful or more grand or maybe more peaceful. Cities have interesting sayings that try to capture your interest. Almost like slogans to entice you to come and visit and spend money. They have to do that I guess but after a while you become jaded to the hype. These slogans usually written by some office of tourism or city agency no matter how clever or well thought out often fall deaf to the ears of seasoned travelers or just cynical people. Suzhou is no different. In fact the sayings associated with Suzhou are pretty good. Up in the sky there is heaven, on earth there is Suzhou and Hangzhou .  That is a pretty bold statement when you consider the size of China and the many beautiful places that live within its borders. 

Suzhou is an ancient city, built in 514 BC. Marco Polo passed through it while on the Silk road. Sun Tzu wrote The Art of War in Suzhou when it was the kingdom of Wu.  The city is famous for it’s beautiful gardens and rich history but with any city, the thing that will bring people back is the experience they have while there.  My Suzhou experience was unique. Invited with several other photographers to photograph their city, I was given a little more special treatment than the average tourist. Starting with a banquet on my first night where I learned about the hospitality of Suzhou. Our host offered us an amazing meal of dishes typical of the area. It was at that banquet where I learned the custom of toasting with bai jiu a strong alcohol and the true meaning of Gan Bei.

When our host stood up to toast everyone I couldn’t understand a word he was saying but as a polite foreigner, I followed suit and drank from the thimble sized glass. Easy enough I thought. Then I noticed our host toasting individuals at the table. I thought to myself, this guy is going to have to drink a lot if he keeps this up. Soon he decides that the small glass isn’t appropriate for some reason and takes up a small wine glass full of the clear potent drink and toasted another person. Soon he stood up and shouted from across the table. Miker! My name is Michael but that is close here. He lifted his glass and I knew I had to respond in kind. I reached for the small glass, eyed him quickly and he shook me off like a baseball catcher shakes off a pitcher. I reach for the larger glass and he nods in approval. The curve ball eh. I raise my glass and before we drink he announces that we will gan bei I don’t know many Mandarin words but I have learned that it means bottoms up. Gan Bei literally means dry cup. 

Gan Bei!!

Ok liver, I know you won’t like this but I can‘t be rude. We both drink then he shows me the glass as if to prove that it is empty so I do the same. The whole table applauds and with that one small act I realize that I am part of the group even though I don’t know anyone really and no one speaks English. Soon I find out that the tradition holds that you have to toast with everyone at the table. We had about 20 people there and soon I realized that it was going to be a long night. We toasted with little glasses and larger ones always showing proof that the gan bei was respected. Even though I understood very little of what was said I found myself laughing and very much a part of the evening. One of the photographers stood up and did some sort of skit that looked like a cross between Peeking opera and SNL. He had the whole room in stitches and I found myself laughing along even though I couldn’t understand what he was saying. One by one everyone came up to me to toast often more than once.  I was struck by how easy it is for me to feel at home in China despite the fact that almost everything is foreign to me. For a foreigner alone in China, it means more to me than I sometimes realize.

Suzhou may be a destination spot because of it’s history or canals but there is something less tangible that struck me. There is a feeling in Suzhou; a feeling that they care about how people live. There is a peaceful easy sensation that makes you feel relaxed and at home. Maybe it is the way people smile when you talk to them. As I visited the Ding Hui Temple, I met 80 year old year Han Chow Yun who works there. I asked if I could take her photo and her smile lit up the morning.

I think you can often get the feel of a place by how it’s elderly live. If they are happy, that tends to make me think it is a good place to live. I was taken to the Er Lang Xiang community rest home where they provide health services to the elderly of the area. They can exercise, have their blood pressure checked and get foot massages. There is also an area where they can take in oxygen and relax on comfortable chairs in a quiet room.  The only cost to them is for meals. There were several women working out but one in particular caught my eye. She was Lu Zong Zhen age 93. I was told that she exercises regularly. She gladly showed off here abilities on a machine that exercises arms and shoulders.

Artists, musicians and craftsmen abound in Suzhou and the government provides space for them to paint in the Suzhou Artist Palace. There they practice traditional paintings. Or play music for the elderly. Beautiful places inspire beautiful art.

Suzhou seems to have a remarkable amount of dishes that they are known for. Every meal was delicious and balanced with fish, fresh vegetables and a few reptiles thrown in for good measure. The Heng Jie market is a good place to go find those local delicacies. On my last day in Suzhou, I attended yet another banquet. There were so many dishes to chose from and I relied on my interpreter to tell me what I was about to eat. One dish was put in front of me and I asked her what it was. Chicken she said. It was the most delicious chicken I had ever had. A few minutes later, she corrected herself. Uh not chicken…..Turtle.  Just then the lazy Susan spun to me with a large turtle shell in a dish. I just thought…. Mike, today we are trying new things. 

A beautiful golden Buddha at Ding Hui Temple in Suzhou.

One of Suzhou's friendly people 80 year old Han Chow Yun works at the Ding Hui Temple.

The skilled hand of Calligrapher Yan Lisheng at work.

Yan Lisheng made this scroll for me. It translates roughly to Truth follows the way of nature.

Li Wen Da age 80 relaxes and reads the paper while taking Oxygen at the Er Lang Xiang Community Rest Home in Suzhou, Jiangsu Province.

With Suzhou's relaxing air, it's always a good time to catch a nap. This vender was selling chickens and took advantage of a lull in business to rest.

The Ruiguang Pagoda at Panmen Gate stands 43.2 meters and is known as the Pagoda of Auspicious Light.

Lu Zong Zhen age 93 exercises at the Er Lang Xiang Community Rest Home in Suzhou, Jiangsu Province.