Thursday, February 10, 2011

Snow!!


Beijing had the first snow of winter today. It is the latest date for the first snowfall of the year in 60 years. There has been a drought through northern China and there has been much talk about the fact that it hasn’t snowed yet. I think some people see it as a bad omen. Almost every day there is a story about the drought in China Daily. Yesterday had a front-page photo of Chinese military shooting cannons into the air trying to seed the clouds. Next day it snows. Coincidence? If I was a cloud and the Chinese military started shooting cannons at me, I would drop a little snow. The Forbidden City was covered in a thin white veil and it made it appear even more mysterious. The snow makes the city seem very peaceful and quiet. People stop to appreciate the snow and there is almost a feeling of relief in the air that it finally arrived. There is another feeling in the air……Frickin cold!

I go with an intern to JingshanPark, which is near the Forbidden City. After entering the gate I see a group of people who seem to be of retirement age. They are playing a game called Ti Jian Zi which is played with a large shuttlecock and looks like Hackey Sack. The participants stand in a circle and try to keep the bird from hitting the ground. They can use their feet and other body parts but can’t use their hands. I am impressed at how good these folks are. They are making moves that are impressive and it strikes me that they are having the time of their lives. They laugh and seem to be able to keep going without a miss for a long time. It turns out they come to the park every day to play for fun and exercise. Also they come for the companionship. I really enjoy taking their photos. The snow or age didn’t slow them down at all.

Soon we are climbing very slippery stone steps up to the Wanchun Pavilion. It is magnificent on top of a steep hill with a dusting of snow. I am told we will get a good view of the Forbidden City from there. After a cold breathless climb to the top we are rewarded with a view of the north gate of a place I have only seen in movies. It looks amazing! I can easily imagine ancient Chinese soldiers lining up in the city. For someone who has grown up in Southern California where the oldest buildings are from the 1800s, seeing buildings built 1406 to 1420 fascinates me. For 500 years this was the home of emperors. This is the center of a city that right now seems to be the center of the universe. There are several photographers at the Wanchun Pavilion taking photos of the view. The Pavilion itself is beautiful. Inside sits a huge golden Buddha. There are five pavilions in the park. Each one used to house a Buddha but the European Allies looted them in the 1900s.  During the Ming Dynasty, the pavilion was the highest point in Beijing.

Bei Jing translates to Northern Capital. Bei= North. Jing= capital. It has a long history as the seat of power for China. The Ming Dynasty, the Qing Dynasty, the Republic of China and the People’s Republic of China have all called Beijing the capital city. Even before the unification of China, Beijing was the capital of the state of Yan. So it has seen its share of battles, takeovers and invasions. If you read about the history of Beijing, you just get exhausted. I can’t remember what I had for lunch yesterday much less keep 3,000 years of history in my head.  


The snow clears the air of some of the pollution and it feels good to breathe a little fresher air. This is such an interesting place: A real blend of ancient history and architecture and some of the most modern buildings I have ever seen. There is a mall in San Letun which is huge. It is in the middle of an area where westerners hang out. It has a giant tv screen which shows models pitching the latest perfume or fashion or just beautiful video. There is also an Apple store! The giant Apple logo shines like a beacon  high up on the building.  If you look up beacon in the dictionary it usually says something like 
beacon |ˈbēkən|
nouna fire or light set up in a high or prominent position as a warning, signal, or celebration
I think the warning signal is a good description in this case. Itis telling you that soon you will be separated from your hardearned Kuai! I am like a moth drawn to a flame. DONTLOOK AT THE LIGHT! Someone yells I look over and heis on the side of the wall with his little moth wings singed.CANT STOP....HELP ME!!  So like a moth, the beam oflight emanating from the apple in the sky catches me in itsgravitational pull and soon I am not even walking. It just lifted me up and pulled me in. The nice man at the doorinvites me in with a smile. The light beam sets me downgently in front of the Ipods. The attractive woman offers helpwith perfect english. Soon I am giving my credit card over paying about 60 dollars more than I would in the U.S. Thelight drops me and I am out the door. How did thathappen???? I wasn't even aware I was in the store. Weird! Iam slightly outraged that I am paying more but I soon forgotas I struggled to open the package. The packaging on theIpod could keep out the Mongol horde more effectively thanthe Great Wall! Now I have my new toy and like a child, Ihave forgotten all about the magic light and the pain to mywallet. Now before you judge there is a practical reason Iwanted the Ipod. You can get a great app for telling cabdrivers where you want to go in Beijing. And I could havespent about 1000 on an Iphone but instead bought a cheapphone and the Ipod instead.  I am one small step closer to communicating with cab drivers. Looks like Iwon't be left standing in the snow. 




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